We try out Henry, Rosewood Hong Kong’s brand new grill and smokehouse, helmed by Chef Nate Green.
District: Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Cuisine: American-style smokehouse and grill
How much: Starters priced between $148 and $248; butchers shop dry-aged USDA prime steaks priced between $248 and $688; meat dishes between $298 and $538; seafood dishes between $348 and $598; vegetables and pasta between $158 and $498; sides between $58 and $138; dessert between $98 and $198; cheese board $178 for three, $258 for five
Must order: 44 Farms USD Prime Black Angus Bone-In Ribeye 90 Days Aged in Woodford Reserve Bourbon & Ash; Seven Pepper Beef Brisket; Corn Bread Soufflé
The best for: A special occasion feast
You may think that Hong Kong doesn’t need another steakhouse, especially one found inside a hotel. It’s a well-known fact that Hongkongers are already spoiled for choice when it comes to getting their beef fix, but you may find that newly-opened Henry offers something new. Found inside the luxe Rosewood, Hong Kong on the newly-redeveloped Victoria Dockside, the restaurant stands out from the crowd with its sophisticated interior and dedication to honouring Southern American cuisine.
At the helm of the American grill, smokehouse and butcher concept is Chef de Cuisine Nathan Green. Gourmands in the city may remember him from Rhoda in Sai Ying Pun and his signature live-fire, nose-to-tail cooking style. Although Rhoda has now sadly closed its doors, Chef Nate’s passion for quality ingredients and traditional cooking techniques lives on. Sure to make its mark on Hong Kong’s densely-populated restaurant scene, Henry is largely inspired by time-honoured American steak traditions, with flavours and ingredients drawn from America’s southernmost states. Guests can expect to feast on a selection of dry-aged USDA prime steaks, Southern-style barbecue, creole-spiced fish and sides including dirty rice, red corn grits and much (much) more. Those dining at Henry need come hungry (and leave their diets well and truly at the door), as you’re going to be in for one hell of a feast.
Part of Bayfare Social, Rosewood’s newly-opened diverse gastro market, Henry can be found on the hotel’s fifth floor. Walking through the buzzy international food hub and stepping into the sleek, stylish and sophisticated Henry, you instantly get the feeling that something special is on the horizon. A marble-clad cocktail bar stands proud in the centre of the room, stacked with an impressive selection of bourbon and rye whiskey, as well as gin, rum and agave spirits. The main dining room also features leather banquette booths, smaller tables for couples and an impressive private dining room. Although the interiors at Henry are undoubtedly luxe with finishes of marble, brass and leather, the space is still inviting. Chef Nate can be seen visiting numerous tables around the restaurant and serving up hefty plates of prime beef, and it’s his clear passion that gives the whole place a soul that other steakhouses somewhat lack.
The large menu has ample selections to feed any clientele. Primarily a smokehouse and grill, Chef Nate has intentionally added a punchy array of seafood and vegetable dishes to the lineup to ensure that non-meat eaters can still enjoy the very best of what Henry has to offer. Although it is, without a doubt, the prime-aged USDA prime beef that’s truly the star.
From the starter selection we loved the hearty offerings of cold smoked steak tartare with egg yolk puree ($218), along with the butcher’s shop terrine with cherry and peach chutney ($248). We enjoyed both slathered onto the restaurant’s homemade sourdough (a bread that might just rival Rhoda’s famed seaweed bread).
When it comes to the mains, the monster Brandt Ranch 1.8kg Tomahawk was definitely a show stopper, but it was the 44 Farms USD Prime Black Angus Bone-In Ribeye that won our hearts (and our stomachs). Fatty and delicious with a robust beef flavour, we loved the added drama of the bourbon flambé at the table. Alongside the meat, Henry offers a choice of six steak sauces, as well as a range of homemade ketchups and hot sauces. The standout for us was always going to be the smokey blue béarnaise. A must-try for lovers of rich and creamy blue cheese.
We also couldn’t get enough of the seven pepper beef brisket with espresso BBQ sauce ($298). A Southern barbecue staple, the meat was tender and juicy, with a fiery peppery crust adding to the flavour. When it comes to sides, we didn’t stray from our indulgent streak and opted for the mashed potatoes with pigs trotter and madeira gravy and cornichons ($88). Alongside the creamy and meaty potatoes, some al dente broccolini with fennel and anchovy dressing ($118) added a necessary touch of green to our plates. The fire roasted salad with peppers, tomato, onions, lime, coriander and mint dressing ($88) was a genius addition to the menu. The zingy dressing and punchy vegetables worked as a much-needed palate cleanser, helping you to go back for round two of meat just when you thought you’ve had enough.
To wrap up our meal, we tried a selection of Henry’s indulgent desserts. The chocolate fondant with pretzel milk ice cream ($118) caught our eye immediately and did not disappoint. Satisfyingly rich and chocolatey, the decadence of the dessert couldn’t be faulted, but we would have liked a little more of a salty kick from the pretzel ice cream. Although we highly recommend opting for the fondant, for a taste of something new, don’t miss the corn bread soufflé ($128). Served with vanilla ice cream, bacon bits and bourbon caramel, the unique dessert was warming with undertones of caramelised popcorn.
Our verdict: Henry is a must try for meat-lovers in the city. Chef Green’s enthusiasm and passion for his ingredients and what is being created at the restaurant is evident in every dish on the menu, making for something truly special. Standing out from the crowd, we’re sure it will quickly become a go-to dining spot for celebratory meals, with a good time, excellent food and plenty of drinks guaranteed.
Henry is open now Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm to 10:30pm.
Henry, 5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, www.rosewoodhotels.com, www.henrygrill.hk
Featured image and image 2 courtesy of Henry, images 1, 3 and 4 courtesy of Annie Simpson.