30 May, 2018
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Your Neighbourhood Guide to Sham Shui Po

30 May, 2018
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Sham Shui Po is truly one of a kind, and this busy district is anything but boring, so put on a pair of comfortable shoes and get ready to explore this bustling area of Kowloon

Where in the world can you find street vendors selling miscellaneous computer hardware next to Michelin-recommended restaurants, a prestigious art university just a stone’s throw away from local street-food vendors, and flea-market clothes stalls next door to a craft-a-holic’s dream? Sham Shui Po is truly one of a kind, and this busy district is anything but boring. So put on a pair of comfortable shoes and get ready to explore!

Where to Eat:

Tim Ho Wan

Nobody does Char Siu Baos quite like Tim Ho Wan, and this branch may possibly serve up the best. We’re not sure if it’s the hunger that inevitably kicks in after a day of exploring Sham Shui Po, or whether it’s the little open kitchen where you can watch your dumplings being steamed, but something about this particular Tim Ho Wan makes dim sum just taste extra good. Be prepared to wait – but it will be worth it!

Tim Ho Wan, 9-11 Fuk Wing St, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2788 1226, www.timhowan.hk

Garden Bakery Cafe

If you’ve lived in Hong Kong for a while, you’ll be familiar with this beloved bakery – perhaps, like many, you’ve grown up eating Garden’s cakes and breads. This factory building is where the magic happens, and the cafe on the ground floor serves up some pretty delicious goods made fresh daily. Avoid the carb coma by taking a little walk down memory lane with its display of retro biscuit tins.

Garden Cafe, G/F, Garden Company, 58 Castle Peak Road, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2720 0155

Heritage Tea House sham shui po

Heritage Tea House

Just a short walk from downtown Sham Shui Po, and with an atmosphere so tranquil it’s a bit like eating in a zen spa, the Heritage Tea House is your best bet for a moment of peace and quiet in one of Hong Kong’s busiest areas. The real winner is this restaurant’s homemade dumplings and noodle soup, served with healthy iced herbal tea. Order a plate of vegetarian tofu rolls to start with and voila, you’ve found yourself a little spot of heaven.

Heritage Tea House, Shek Kip Mei, Pak Tin Street, Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, L1-06, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2779 1030

Burgerman

Nothing satisfies food cravings quite like a good burger, and Burgerman never fails to deliver. There’s something for everyone’s taste as you can choose from a variety of options including Wagyu beef, Portobello mushroom, pineapple chicken and the creatively named Mermaid Burger. A side of sweet potato fries wouldn’t go amiss, either – after all, you need to keep those energy levels up if you’re going to brave shopping in Sham Shui Po.

Burgerman, G/F, 65-71 Yen Chow Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2361 1330, www.burgerman.com.hk

Hop Yik Tai

While Mong Kok is famed for its street food, Sham Shui Po offers just as good a selection in a slightly less hectic environment. This particular stall is famed for its Cheong Fun, or rice noodle rolls, which are made fresh every day and rather than stuffed (as you might find in a dim sum restaurant), they are served up with a variety of rich sauces. This popular little eatery was recommended in the Michelin Guide, so prepare to queue – but trust us when we say it’s worth it.

Hop Yik Tai, 121 Kwelin Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Kakurega Ramen Factory

Who doesn’t love Tsukumen? Hidden in Sham Shui Po’s largest mall, this ramen joint may not be much to look at, but don’t let appearances fool you. Serving up just 100 bowls a day – 50 for lunch and 50 for dinner – guests should expect to queue, but once seated, be served some seriously good nosh. Noodles are handmade, laboriously kneaded, shaped and cut every morning, and the short menu offers three types of broth which come with a half-boiled egg, scallions, and thinly-sliced pork.

Kakurega Ramen Factory, 7083, Dragon Centre, Yen Chow Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 3487 0989

Read more: The Best Tsukemen in Hong Kong

Tian Tian Di Dessert House

If you’re in the mood for something sweet, head to popular dessert spot Tian Tian Di Dessert House, recognisable for its large, bright-green signage. The shop serves up local delights, including sticky rice balls in ginger soup and flavoured shaved-ice mountains, and its molten mango puddings are a must-try. While English menus are available, they’re not as detailed, so be prepared to experiment a little!

Tian Tian Di Dessert House, G/F, 120 Fuk Wa Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Where to Drink:

Cafe Sausalito

While other areas in Hong Kong are admittedly more hailed for their coffee shops, Sham Shui Po does offer a pretty good cuppa to those who seek it. Café Sausalito, located a short walk outside of the craziness, offers all the usual suspects as well as single origin pour over coffee and a few original concoctions. We love that this shop also works hard to protect the environment and add to the local community by encouraging customers to bring their own cups, providing free water for those who want to refill bottles, and working with partnerships to minimise food waste and host live music on weekends.

Cafe Sausalito, 201 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 3689 3292, www.cafesausalitohk.com

King of Coconut

Nothing says summer quite like coconuts, and where else would you get your fix than at King of Coconut? Serving up the triple whammy of fresh coconut juice, coconut water and evaporated milk in one smooth, delicious concoction, this mother of all coconut drinks is sure to satisfy.

King of Coconut, 94 Yen Chow Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Common Room & Co. sham shui po

Common Room & Co.

At Common Room & Co., coffee, art and crafts come together, and what better place to combine the three than Sham Shui Po, the crafts mecca of Hong Kong? Enjoy a cup of its single origin brew and browse the many books lining the shelves, explore the artisanal products on display, or simply sit back and watch the crowd of hipster creatives.

Common Room & Co., G/F 198 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2865 6880, www.facebook.com/commonroomandco

Fresh Juice Stall

There’s no better way to refuel during a day spent exploring one of Hong Kong’s oldest districts than with a freshly pressed fruit and veg juice. Though it doesn’t have an English name, this shop is impossible to miss, with its eye-catching green posters and (albeit slightly dusty) decorations of fake fruit and plants adorning the street-side stall. The abundant menus are all in Chinese, so if you can’t read the language, just point out some fruit and veg you’d like juiced.

Fresh Juice Stall, corner of Fuk Wing Street and Nam Cheong Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Where to Shop:

Apliu Street

The market on Apliu Street can be a bit of a shock to the system at first, but for those with a keen eye and serious stamina, it will quickly prove to be a treasure trove of electronic trinkets. Oh, you’re throwing a party and looking for fairy lights? Or planning a weekend of serious home improvement and need an antenna, a jackhammer or a shower head? Or perhaps you’re looking for a last-minute gift idea and have your heart set on a drone? Located directly outside MTR exit A2, the stalls lining Apliu Street are overflowing with electronics, so whatever it is you’re looking for, this is a pretty good bet.

Apliu Street, Sham Shui Po, MTR exit A2, Kowloon, Hong Kong

sham shui po markets

Ki Lung Street

If you fancy a spot of sewing on the weekend, pop by Ki Lung Street fabric market to pick up an array of fabrics at bargain prices. Quite often the stalls will stock seasonal fabrics (so you may not necessarily find velvet in the summer months) and sell it by the yard. You can also pick up sewing thread, needles, thimbles, sewing scissors and other sewing tools.

Ki Lung Street, between Shek Kip Mei Street and Wong Chuk Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Fuk Wing Street

Wander down towards Fuk Wing Street and you’ll be greeted by a plethora of shops and stalls selling everything from kids toys, wholesale stationary, gift items, souvenirs and decorations. Anytime a festival is coming up, this is our go-to spot for themed decorations at fantastic prices. Organising a party and in need of party favours? Check out Fuk Wing Street!

Fuk Wing Street, between Kweilin Street and Nam Cheong Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Leather Stores: Alri Star, The Lederer and Teepee Leather Workshop

There’s no shortage of leather stores in Sham Shui Po, and one of our favourites is Alri Star. With the tell-tale smell of leather drawing you in, this high-ceilinged shop holds everything you could ever need for leather crafts, including some lovely handmade items. If by some ill fate you can’t find what you’re looking for, try one of the other stores in the area: There’s The Lederer, where you can pick up DIY leather stitching packs or the Teepee Leather Workshop, where you can learn the craft itself.

Alri Star, 236 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 3791 2217, www.alristar.com

The Lederer, 219 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2614 5221, www.thelederer.co/en

Teepee Leather Workshop, 217 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2488 9101, www.facebook.com/Teepee-Leather-Workshop

Savon Workshop

There are all sorts of ways to get crafty, so why not pick one that allows you to smell good, too? A family-run business, Savon Workshop is the place to head for soap-making enthusiasts, stocked from floor to ceiling with deliciously fragrant oils, dried herbs and flowers, and handmade soaps and skincare. Not ready to experiment at home by yourself? The store also runs soap-making workshops.

Savon Workshop, 191 – 193 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2677-8173, www.savonworkshop.com

Lucky Weaving Lace Co.

For crafty DIY-ers, stores like Lucky Weaving Lace Co. are a veritable goldmine. Anything that can be tied into a knot is sold here: there are rows upon rows of ribbons and string, from old-fashioned lace and floral embroidery to leather cords and strands of pompoms; they have it all! Rather than spending a fortune on gift wrap, why not dress up presents with a little visit to Lucky Weaving?

Lucky Weaving Lace Co., 122 Nam Cheong Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, www.luckyweaving.com

Tin Fu International

Tin Fu is the place to go if you’re looking for beads, trims and other accessories. This open corner store is impossible to miss – its plastic crates are full to the brim with garishly bright beads in all shapes and sizes. The beads sold here come in all imaginable colours, from neon to silver and gold, and further in to the store you’ll find a huge array of charms and pendants.

Tin Fu International, 222A Yu Chau Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, www.tinfultd.com

Bead Box Ltd.

If DIY jewellery is more up your alley, head to Bead Box instead. You can’t miss the store – just look out for the fake and slightly dusty European-style brick walls with windowsills overflowing with plastic greenery. The shop itself boasts a huge selection of pendants, beads and pretty much anything else that can be hung from a piece of string; you’ll find everything from animals, snowflakes, skulls and the whole alphabet, as well as googly eyes in all sizes (because you can never have enough googly eyes).

Bead Box Ltd., 221 Yu Chau Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Kiwi Accessories

Going to a really fancy dress party? Kiwi’s range of dazzling accessories will ensure you will stand out in a crowd: think bejewelled and entirely OTT earrings, necklaces, pendants, tiaras, hair clips, brooches…and those tiny lacy hats with elaborate decorations that mysteriously cover half your face with netting.

Kiwi Accessories, 219 Yu Chau Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Wong Kee Flea Market

We’ll admit that we’re not 100% sure on the name of this store – it’s entirely possible that it’s a combination of the current and previous owners’ signage – but despite the confusing name, this is hands-down one of our favourite places to head for plastic flowers. The store entrance hints at this, but it’s not until you delve right into the back that you find the synthetic jungle. While they’re not high-quality enough to pass for stylish home décor, they do make pretty good handmade flower crowns and other accessories. Perfect to dress up your next tea party!

Wong Kee Flea Market, 81 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Vinyl Hero

Music lovers, this one’s for you. With records from the vinyl heyday of the seventies and eighties, Ah Paul’s (the owner who is a true enthusiast and a bit of a legend) tiny space is chock-a-block full of musical gems, stacked high from floor to ceiling. Be warned, though – prepare to spend some time browsing, and if you have OCD tendencies, it’s best to just stay away.

Vinyl Hero, 239 Cheung Sha Wan Road, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 9841 7136 

Golden Computer Centre

We all know the Wan Chai Computer Centre, but believe it or not, the Golden Computer Centre in Sham Shui Po has an even wider range of electronics for much cheaper. From bluetooth speakers and USB chargers, to computer consoles, games, cameras, laptops and more, this maze of a shopping mall is filled to the rafters with everything techie you need!

Golden Computer Centre, 146-152 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Places to Go:

The Park

If you’re looking for respite from Sham Shui Po’s busy, market-lined streets, take the stairs behind the Garden Bakery Building up to the park. It’s not spectacular – don’t go looking for flamingos – but it is a quiet, green and sheltered spot where you can enjoy a sweet bun and watch some Tai Chi. Sounds pretty relaxing to us.

The Park, Tai Po Road, opposite SCAD Hong Kong / behind the Garden Bakery Building, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong

JCCAC Sham shui po

JCCAC

If you’re keen on exploring some local arts and crafts, follow quiet Pak Tin Street to the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre. This multi-storey former housing estate has a courtyard in the middle and is best described as a multidisciplinary arts ‘village’. The charity-run space provides studios to the local arts community and is a great place to soak up the creative spirit. Visitors are welcome to stroll around at any time and if you’re lucky, you’ll catch an exhibition day.

Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, 30 Pak Tin Street, Shek Kip Mei, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2353 1311, www.jccac.org.hk

SCAD Hong Kong

With Sham Shui Po being the crafts mecca of Hong Kong, it’s no surprise that this is where a prestigious art and design university decided to open its local campus. If you’re feeling a little uninspired, head up Tai Po Road and participate in one of SCAD Hong Kong’s tours, which are open to the public. The building itself is the UNESCO award-winning former North Kowloon Magistracy, and a wide-range of beautiful artwork graces the walls inside.

SCAD Hong Kong, 292 Tai Po Road, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2253 8022, visitscadhk.hk or www.scad.edu 

Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum

Surprise! Sham Shui Po isn’t all about shopping and food. Discover some of Hong Kong’s ancient history at the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb, which was uncovered in 1955 during construction work and is believed to be from the Eastern Han dynasty ca. 25-220AD. The tomb can be seen behind glass panelling, and the exhibition hall next door is full of pottery and bronze artefacts excavated from the tomb.

Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum, 41 Tonkin Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2386 2863, www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum

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