When you enter the restaurant (the doorman outside is an indication it’s going to be pretty fancy), you’re at first totally taken aback by the large space inside, with tables so far apart from each other by Hong Kong standards you could be in different restaurants. White walls, banquette and booth seating, and a rather harsh terracotta bricking effect mean you initially get a slightly Mediterranean vibe , but when you look closer you start to notice some softer touches, like soft leather seating, plaid cushions and wool-covered chairs. Still, the overall effect decor-wise is fairly masculine, perhaps a nod to the expected office lunch crowd they might be hoping to draw from nearby Pacific Place.
The menu is super-simple – around 6-7 starters and the same number of main courses, listed by their main ingredient so it’s really easy to spot what you fancy. The wine menu on the other hand (which the very excited sommelier told us breathlessly is actually a wine ATLAS) is a huge tome containing wines from all around the world, including Japan and Brazil. We were super-boring and ordered ourselves a French Chenin Blanc, which was perfectly chilled and delicious.
By now, we were feeling that we were on to a real winner — a good sign is when halfway through the meal you’re saying to eachother, “We should really bring so-and-so here”, and the service was absolutely impeccable, to a standard I’ve never experienced in any other restaurant that has just been open for a week.
Our desserts were also super-impressive – we ordered the Passion Fruit with White Chocolate Curd, Pistachio Crumble and Ginger Ice Cream and the Chocolate Crumble with Chocolate Mousse, Honeycomb and Lemon Purée. The Chocolate Crumble was a little reminiscent of one of Madam Sixty-Ate’s desserts, but executed so much better so that we were left licking our lips and wishing for more. The Ginger Ice Cream was the standout of the other dessert – pleasantly spicy yet cool. To finish, a plate of petits fours which tipped us over into totally stuffed territory, but we still gobbled them up as we weren’t about to miss out on a perfect ending to an amazing meal.
The Principal is The Press Room Group’s most high-end restaurant to date, but its lack of stuffiness, incredible food and great service should allow it to waltz straight into the position of rubbing shoulders with some of Hong Kong’s very top establishments. We just can’t wait to go back again!
Three course meal for two, including wine – around HK1,700
The Principal Shop No. 1, G/F, Tower 1, Starcrest, 9 Star St, Wan Chai 2563 3444 pressroomgroup.com/#
Opening Hours: Lunch – Monday-Saturday 12pm-3pm; Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-12am (closed Sundays)